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Do-It-Yourself and fix your problems now, enjoy! CLICK HERE. The purpose of the clutch is to smoothly disengage and engage the engine from the rear wheel for starting, stopping and shifting gears. The clutch is a wet, multiple-disc clutch with steel plates and fiber friction plates stacked alternately in the clutch shell. The pack consists of seven fiber plates, seven steel plates, one narrow fiber plate, one damper spring and one damper spring seat.
The fiber plates clutch driving plates are keyed to the clutch shell, which is driven by the engine through the primary chain. The steel plates clutch driven plates are keyed to the clutch hub, which drives the rear wheel through the transmission and secondary drive belt.
When the clutch is engaged clutch lever releasedthe diaphragm spring applies strong force against the pressure plate. The pressure plate then presses the clutch plates together causing the plates to turn as a single unit. The result is that the rotational force of the clutch shell is transmitted through the clutch plates to the clutch hub. As long as the transmission is set in a forward gear, power from the engine will be transmitted to the rear wheel.
When the clutch is disengaged clutch lever pulled to left handlebar gripthe pressure plate is pulled outward by clutch cable action against the diaphragm spring, thereby compressing the diaphragm spring. With the pressure plate retracted, strong inward force no longer squeezes the clutch plates together. The fiber plates are now free to rotate at a different relative speed than that of the steel plates i. Slippage between the clutch plates occurs.
The result is that the rotational force of the clutch shell is no longer fully transmitted through the "unlocked" clutch plates to the clutch hub. The engine is free to rotate at a different speed than the rear wheel. Satisfactory engine performance depends upon a mechanically sound engine. In many cases, unsatisfactory performance is caused by combustion chamber leakage. A compression test can help determine the source of cylinder leakage. A proper compression test should be performed with the engine at normal operating temperature when possible.
Disconnect spark plug wires. Clean around spark plug base and remove spark plugs. HD to front cylinder per manufacturer's instructions. Make sure transmission is in neutral. With throttle plate in wide open position, crank engine continuously through 5 to 7 full compression strokes. Note gauge readings at the end of the first and last compression strokes. Record test results. Compression is normal if final readings are within the range specified in Tableand do not indicate more than a 10 psi 0.
If compression is below psi 6. Readings that are considerably higher during the second test indicate worn piston rings. NOTE: After completing the compression test s and reinstalling the spark plugs, make sure the throttle plate is in the closed position before starting the engine. Compression low on first stroke, tends to build up on the following strokes, but does not reach normal. Improves considerably when oil is added to cylinder. Compression low on first stroke, does not build up much on following strokes.
Does not improve considerably with the addition of oil. Check for correct pushrod length. The cylinder leakage test pinpoints engine problems including leaking valves, worn, broken or stuck piston rings and blown head gaskets. The cylinder leakage tester applies compressed air to the cylinder at a controlled pressure and volume and measures the percent of leakage from the cylinder. Use CYLINDER LEAKDOWN TESTER and follow the specific instructions supplied with the tester. The following are some general instructions that apply to Honda motorcycle engines:.
Run engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Stop engine. Clean dirt from around spark plugs and remove the spark plugs. Remove the air cleaner and set the throttle in the wide open position. The piston in the cylinder being tested must be at top dead center of compression stroke both valves closed during the test. To keep the engine from turning over when air pressure is applied to the cylinder, engage transmission in fifth gear and lock the rear brake.
NOTE: Before performing the cylinder leakage test, verify that the tester itself is free from leakage to obtain the most accurate test results. With a soap solution [applied around all tester fittings], connect the cylinder leakdown tester to the compressed air source and look for any bubbles that would indicate leakage from the tester. Following the manufacturer's instructions, perform a cylinder leakage test on the front cylinder. Make a note of the percent of leakage. Listen for air leaks at induction module intake, exhaust pipe and head gasket.
Air escaping through the induction module indicates a leaking intake valve. Air escaping through the exhaust pipe indicates a leaking exhaust valve. NOTE: If air is escaping through valves, check push rod length. NOTE: After completing the cylinder leakage test s and reinstalling the spark plugs, make sure the throttle plate is in the closed position before starting the engine.
Check Prior to Cylinder Head Removal. Oil tank overfilled. Oil carryover. Breather hose restricted. Restricted oil filter. Check After Cylinder Head Removal. Oil return passages for clogging. Valve guide seals. Valve guide to valve stem clearance. Gasket surface of both head and cylinder. Cylinder head casting's porosity allowing oil to drain into combustion chamber. When an engine needs repair, it is not always possible to determine definitely beforehand whether repair is possible with only cylinder heads, cylinders, and pistons disassembled, or whether complete engine disassembly is required for crankcase repair.
Most commonly, only cylinder head and cylinder repair is needed valves, rings, piston, etc. After disassembling "upper end" only, it may be found that crankcase repair is necessary; this requires removal of engine crankcase from chassis outlined in REMOVING ENGINE FROM CHASSIS. Malfunctioning or improperly installed check valve. Does not glow when ignition is turned on prior to operating engine.
The Troubleshooting section is a guide to diagnose problems. Read the appropriate sections of your Honda manual before performing any work. The following check list of possible operating troubles and their probable causes will be helpful in keeping a motorcycle in good operating condition.
More than one of these conditions may be causing the trouble and all should be carefully checked. Starter Motor Does Not Operate or Does Not Turn Engine Over 1. Engine run switch in OFF position. Ignition switch not in IGNITION position. Discharged battery, loose or corroded connections solenoid chatters. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty. Electric starter shaft pinion gear not engaging or overrunning clutch slipping.
Bank Angle Sensor tripped and ignition switch not cycled OFF then back to IGNITION position. Security system activated. Motorcycle in gear and clutch not pulled in. Main fuse not in place. Jiffy stand down and transmission in gear.
Engine Turns Over But Does Not Start. Fuel tank empty. Fuel filter clogged. Plugged fuel injectors. Discharged battery, loose or broken battery terminal connections. Fouled spark plugs.