Reparaturhandbuch gsr 600


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ISBN: 863836148
FORMAT: PDF EPUB MOBI TXT
DATEIGROSSE: 10,11

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Reparaturhandbuch gsr 600

Manuals Brands Suzuki Manuals Motorcycle GSR Service manual Suzuki GSR Service Manual. Quick Links. Table of Contents. Chapters General Information 1 8 Periodic Maintenance 18 Engine 53 Fi System Diagnosis Related Manuals for Suzuki GSR Motorcycle Suzuki gsr Technical Information 44 pages. Summary of Contents for Suzuki GSR Page 1 GSR 9 9 5 0 0 - 3 6 1 6 0 - 0 1 E Page 3: How To Use This Manual HOW TO USE THIS MANUAL TO LOCATE WHAT YOU ARE LOOKING FOR: 1.

The text of this manual is divided into sections. The section titles are listed in the GROUP INDEX. Holding the manual as shown at the right will allow you to find the first page of the section easily. Page 4 Use engine coolant.

Use fork oil. Apply or use brake fluid. Page 6 : Oil Pressure Switch : Positive Crankcase Ventilation Crankcase Breather : Right Hand : Read Only Memory : Society of Automotive Engineers : Suzuki Diagnosis System STC System : Secondary Throttle Control System STCS STP Sensor : Secondary Throttle Position Sensor To emphasize special information, the symbol and the words WARNING, CAUTION and NOTE have special meanings. Pay special attention to the mes- sages highlighted by these signal words.

SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION The frame serial number or V. Vehicle Identification Number 1 is stamped on the right side of the steering head pipe. Page Fuel, Oil And Engine Coolant Recommendation Always select good quality engine oil. Suzuki recommends the use of SAE 10W engine oil. If SAE 10W engine oil is not available, select an alternative accord- ing to the right chart. If this is not available, use an equivalent which is compatible with an aluminum radiator.

Telescopic, coil spring, oil damped Rear suspension Link type, coil spring, oil damped Front fork stroke Mileages are expressed in terms of kilome- ters, miles and time for your convenience. NOTE: More frequent servicing may be required on motorcycles that are used under severe conditions.

Major lubrication points are indicated below. AIR CLEANER Inspect every 6 km 12 months. Replace every 18 km 36 months. NOTE: Reinstall the camshafts in the specified manner. OIL FILTER Replace initially at 1 km 2 months and every 18 km 36 months thereafter. Also, do not use a genuine Suzuki automobile oil filter on this motorcycle. FUEL LINE Inspect initially 6 km 12 months.

NOTE: Warm up the engine before adjusting the engine idle speed. Replace engine coolant every 2 years. Clean and lubricate every 1 km. Visually check the drive chain for the possible defects listed below. Support the motorcycle by a jack and a wooden block, turn the rear wheel slowly by hand with the transmission shifted to Neutral.

If the distance exceeds the 1 2 3 19 20 21 service limit, the chain must be replaced. Such oil can damage the O-rings. Suzuki recommends to use this standard drive chain as a replacement. BRAKE HOSE AND BRAKE FLUID Inspect every 6 km 12 months. Replace hoses every 4 years. Replace fluid every 2 years.

When the wear exceeds the grooved limit line, replace the pads with new ones. AIR BLEEDING FROM BRAKE FLUID CIRCUIT Air trapped in the brake fluid circuit acts like a cushion to absorb a large proportion of the pressure developed by the master cyl- inder and thus interferes with the full braking performance of the brake caliper. Place the reservoir cap to prevent dirt from entering. TIRE TREAD CONDITION Operating the motorcycle with excessively worn tires will decrease riding stability and consequently invite a dangerous situation.

It is highly recommended to replace a tire when the remaining depth of tire tread reaches the following specification. Inspect the front forks for oil leakage, scoring or scratches on the outer surface of the inner tubes. Replace any defective parts, if necessary. Inspect the rear shock absorbers for oil leakage and check that there is no play in the swingarm. Muffler Apply PERMATEX Check that all chassis bolts and nuts are tightened to their specified torque.

Refer to page for the loca- tions of the following nuts and bolts on the motorcycle. The decision to overhaul the cylinder is often based on the results of a compression test. Periodic mainte- nance records kept at your dealership should include compression readings for each maintenance service. This will give a good indication of the condition of the moving parts.

Save the data in the computer or by printing and filing the hard copies. The saved or filed data are useful for troubleshooting as they can be compared periodically with changes over time or failure conditions of the motorcycle. XXX mmHg Data of secondary throttle valve operation at the time of starting Closes fully in approx.

XX sec. Refer to page listed in each section for removal and reinstallation instructions. Engine removal is sequentially explained in the following steps. Reinstall the engine by reversing the removal procedure. NOTE: When loosening the engine sprocket nut 6depress the brake pedal.

NOTE: The engine mounting nuts are self-locking. Once the nuts have been removed, they are no longer of any use. NOTE: Be sure to face the tabs A on the exhaust pipe gaskets 1 to the engine side when installing them. Organize the parts in their respective groups e. NOTE: If it is difficult to pull out the push rod 8use a magnetic hand or a wire. NOTE: Do not drop the snap ring 1 into the crankcase. NOTE: Do not drop the washer 4 into the crankcase. SUITABLE BOLT A [M12, length: 28 — NOTE: Loosen the crankcase bolts diagonally with the smaller sizes first.

NOTE: Scribe the cylinder number on the piston head. Organize the parts in their respective groups i. Fill the intake and exhaust ports with gasoline to check for leaks. Page 98 Replace the bearings if there is anything unusual. NOTE: Apply a small quantity of THREAD LOCK to the bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. This measure- ment should be taken at the widest part of the compressed plastigauge. Code O. Thickness Yellow 1. L: Left-side thrust bearing R: Right-side thrust bearing NOTE: Pull the crankshaft to the generator side, so that there is no clearance on the right-side thrust bearing.

NOTE: Apply engine oil to each running and sliding part before reas- sembling. Be sure to bring the marked side to the top when fit- ting them to the piston. Before inserting each piston into the cylinder, check that the gaps are so located.

NOTE: When installing the pistons, the indent C of each piston head must be brought to the exhaust side. NOTE: Right thrust bearing has green painting. NOTE: Fit a new gasket to the crankcase bolt B.

NOTE: Align the C-ring with the groove of bearing and the bearing pin with the indent on the bearing. NOTE: Fit the gasket washer to the oil pan bolt A. Page NOTE: Fit the gasket washer to the bolts A. NOTE: When installing the cam chain drive sprocket, align the wide spline teeth A and B. NOTE: Fit a new gasket washer to the starter clutch cover bolt C as shown. Page ENGINE NOTE: Hook the return spring end A to the stopper 5.

NOTE: Align the gearshift cam pin B with the gearshift cam stopper plate hole C. NOTE: Set the oil pump shaft end A to the water pump shaft. NOTE: Be sure to engage the oil pump driven gear with drive gear and primary driven gear with drive gear.

Suzuki GSR Make Model Suzuki GSR Year - 07 Engine F our stoke, transverse four cylinder, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder Capacity It was only after ten days of riding the new Suzuki GSR that I noticed a strange coincidence.

Turns out that this new Naked closes a decade long cycle for me. I can remember all too well my doubts after I was done with the riding. Is this bike so good, so well rounded, so RIGHT or is it only my enthusiasm from my maiden road test that's distorting my judgement? I still remember myself going all weak in the knees in front of my old PC's empty screen but at the end of the day I went with my gut feelings and wrote earth-moving phrases like, "fun in the twisties AND the city" or "a perfect road oriented do-it all tool" and other assorted gems Boy, was I original Was my enthusiasm misplaced?

After all, even back in 96', the Naked-all-rounder concept wasn't exactly new. Leaving 70's and 80's UJM's aside, 93' saw the introduction of Ducati's Monster while Honda's Nighthawk was already well received in the US a decade earlier. In the Japanese market, small cc nakeds where anticipating the models that were to conquer Europe later on. Looking back in time, it'll be hard to deny that the cc Bandit was the bike that really kick started the naked thing in earnest.

Within the emerging specialized categories of Supersports, Touring, Big Trailie and others, the Bandit offered an affordable degree tool, something to scratch your pegs with on the weekends, ride to work in between or take a medium-range tour on. The Bandit possessed a sporty engine in a good handling frame and no less important, had an appealing and aggressive design an area where the Nighthawk was a bit lacking.

Turns out I wasn't the only one to get excited about Suzook's Bandido. It shot right up to the top of the European sales hit parades and even in the dichotomic Sport vs. Cruiser American market, it enjoyed quite a success for a while.

But life goes on and a radical remake of the Bandit was in the cards. Here is where our decade-long cycles meet. Ten years have passed, and after finishing my test of the new Suzuki GSR I felt like I could have copied and pasted entire paragraphs from that maiden road test. These medium-weight nakeds, call them standards if you wish, still feel so right, so well rounded, and so useful. More to the point, Suzuki's own reinterpretation of the concept is really that good. Suzuki left the Bandit pretty much alone all those years.

A major redesign was required then and, indeed, the bike gets the new initials "GSR"; the old Bandit was sold under the GSXF moniker and will remain in production. Although the best-selling Honda uses a rather simple steel backbone frame, Suzuki preferred to get aligned with Yamaha's Fazer and use an aluminum twin-spar job. This might look initially a bit over the top for a do-it-all thingie but like in the SV and said Fazer, this twin spar frame is an all-cast affair with the two halves of the frame, left and right, simply bolted together.

Without any proper welded hollow sections it's an easy-to-cast "C" section all aroundproduction costs can be extremely low while the visual impact is quite strong. I can't say I really like the idea of such hefty-looking spars in a naked model; in my humble opinion they simply hide the engine from view, a real no-no in a naked, but again, that's a matter of taste.

Could the GSR be the Naked that makes American beginners see the light? Suzuki had quite some time to study the competition and try to come up with a slightly better spec for their tool. Not an easy task in this economy-oriented category, yet the GSR sports a very impressive and stiff-looking alloy swingarm while its two main competitors have a rather boring looking steel schwinger. It's a cast unit with a serious bracing bridge and it wouldn't look out of place on a true supersport mount.

Back to the engine. The GSXR mill on the other hand is truly up to date with narrow included angle between its valves, stacked transmission shafts for compactness, and servo-controlled secondary butterflies in the throttle bodies.

The tuning changes made for use in a relaxed naked model have been a slight reduction in valves and throttle body size, using steel rather than titanium for the valves and milder camshafts. Claimed figures are 98 hp at 12, rpm and The figures are quite competitive but I already anticipate that this motor has a surprise in store.

As noted before, the middleweight naked class is an extremely competitive, one where each little extra feature counts and I have to admit that Suzuki, true to their value for the money tradition tried to go the extra mile. The front calipers seem to be ex- GSXR stuff, the fork has pre-load adjustment and the rear shock has both preload and return damping adjustment. Not ground-breaking stuff but these are features missing in the or Z nevertheless.

The GSR 's design deserves a whole paragraph of discussion, if only to point out what could have been. Putting the Hans Muth-designed 80's Katanas aside, most will agree that Suzuki designers don't often take our collective breaths away with their wares. Yet ina certain prototype named B-King was shown in the Tokyo show and it left grown men weeping.

The supercharged cc Hayabusa powered thing was as aggressive as a Hezbollah terrorist on the loose. But what we got instead was this GSR mini-B-King look-a-like. Never mind the missing cc's, design wise the GSR look like a very watered down version of the original B-King concept. You can see that Suzuki's designers tried real hard with the GSR but the end result lost most of the energy and aggression, ending up with a design that lacks in clarity, too middle of the road.

The tail section with the twin headlight and twin silencers creating an MV-F4-like look is a touch of genius but the sheer fatness at fuel tank is plain strange and exaggerated by those built in turn indicators sunk into the silver plastic frame covers. As said, nice touches abound, like the sculpting of the seat that's upholstered with two fabric types and the Ducati-like position for the ignition switch. The chosen publicity slogan for the GSR is "Modern art meets race technology".

I'd say that someone got carried away somewhat. Like what you see? Or maybe you don't? Well, riding the GSR made me forget all criticism quickly. Just like that good old Bandit, the GSR feels super right from the moment the wheels start to roll. Part of the trick seems to be the lowering of ratios in the first four gears but regardless of gearing, the servo-operated secondary butterflies provide a truly magic response.

Let the clutch fully out at revs, and the engine picks up really nicely. The riding position is just as comforting; erect, very in control of the situation, but a tad tight for my 6'4". Let the thing roll and within one yard you feel like putting your feet on the pegs while the steering feels simply neutral; light but with enough feedback and feel.

It's the kind of warm welcoming that could make any newcomer feel so much at home from the word go. Being used to riding in town on my big GSXR, after 10 minutes of city riding on the GSRI am in a scooter-like nirvana. Gliding along a boulevard I roll on the throttle in an impossibly high gear and the GSR just drives on from revs Say what?! Isn't this a whiny ? Home Manufacturer Contact. Classic Bikes Custom Bikes Designs Individual Racing Bikes Video Technical Converter. Make Model. F our stoke, transverse four cylinder, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder.

Bore x Stroke. Compression Ratio. Co oling System. Liquid cooled. Fuel injection, 38 mm throttle bodies. Max Power. Max Torque. Final Drive. Front Suspension. Rear Suspension. Mono shock, link-type, coil spring, oil-damped, spring preload 7-way adjustable, rebound damping force fully adjustable.

Front Brakes. Rear Brakes. Single mm disc, 1 piston caliper. Front Tyre. Rear Tyre. Seat Height. Dry Weight. Fuel Capacity. Top Speed.